Going on a week-long motorcycle tour in June has become a tradition, here at the Team Throttle headquarters. And a second tradition seems to be emerging: making last-minute decisions about our destination. Last year, we headed to Norway because the weather gods thwarted our plans for Spain and Italy. This year, it looked like all of Europe would turn into one big rain zone during our planned week off. Luckily, two days before departure, the Spanish weather maps cleared up a bit, so off we went!

We, that is Jan_F on a Triumph Tiger 900, Shih on his KTM 890 Adventure and myself on a BMW R 1300 GS. Our destination: Picos de Europa, the mountain range in northern Spain, roughly to the southwest of Bilbao.

We had already planned the routes last year, and after a final check this year, our plans looked as follows:

The plans summarized:

• On Saturday, we take the highway down to just below Bordeaux.
• On Sunday, after a bit of highway, we take back roads to well east of Bilbao.
• On Monday, we head into the heart of the Picos de Europa.
• On Tuesday and Wednesday, we do two loops in the Picos – one to the west and the other to the east – starting from the same campsite..
• On Thursday, we begin the journey back home: taking back roads – this time further south than the inbound route – until somewhere between Bilbao and Pamplona.
• On Friday, we take a detour through the Bardenas Reales, cross the French border via a mountain pass, and spend the night near Bayonne.
• Saturday: the fastest way home.

The Highlights

1. Collados del Ason

Our second day revealed that we hadn’t checked our routes in detail. Suddenly, we encountered a stretch of unpaved road. It wasn’t extremely difficult, but the combination of thick loose gravel, some hairpin turns, loaded bikes and street tires at full pressure made it a bit thrilling.

After that offroad climb, and again with asphalt beneath the rubber, we found ourselves at the viewpoint of Collados del Ason, an impressive gorge with a road that beautifully winds down the mountainside.

2. CA-1

The CA-1 is a picturesque little road that starts near Hostal Poncebos (which would fit perfectly in a Wes Anderson film) in the town of the same name as the Hostal. The famous Ruta del Cares hiking trail also begins here.

We rode the CA-1 all the way to Sotres, but you can continue on to Tresviso. If you enjoy a winding road with views of rocky cliffs, this one’s a real treat!

3. LE-2703

The Ruta del Cares hiking trail connects Poncebos with Caín de Valdeón. You can’t pass it by motorcycle. Via the CA-1, you reach one end point of the trail in Poncebos, and with a solid detour, you can also get to Caín de Valdeón by motorcycle. Vamonos!

We turned onto the LE-2703 in Portilla de la Reina, where we quickly experienced that wonderful feeling of being all alone in the world amidst an increasingly impressive backdrop. We passed the Puerto de Pandetrave mountain pass (1,562 m) and 20 km later arrived at a T-junction in the village of Los Llanos de Valdeón. Turning right here, we continued to Caín de Valdeón, where the road comes to an end. The rugged rocks and the views all around were definitely worth the detour.

4. Embalse de La Cohilla

The twisting roads around Embalse de La Cohilla (which means: the Cohilla reservoir) is a very short stretch, but the views are absolutely on point. The combination of the Nansa river carving deep through the landscape, the winding road, the layered rocks adorned with greenery and the towering wall of the dam creates an unmissable photo opportunity.

5. LE-315

Another road that runs alongside a river: the LE-315. The Torio river cuts through thick rock blocks, and on the motorcycle, you twist and turn along the river between those rocky walls. It’s an absolutely stunning stretch of about Vegacervera to Felmin.

6. BU-643

I hope this doesn’t start to sound repetitive, but here’s another one that follows the same formula: a road following a river that cuts through a rocky landscape. This time, it’s the Ebro, which has carved out unimaginably wide and deep canyons. The expansive turns are surrounded by enormous walls of rock.

7. Bardenas Reales

I’ve heard it multiple times: “You absolutely have to do this!”, “Seriously worth it!”, “Unbelievable!”. And yes, it was indeed special to ride through this desolate desert landscape. You won’t be alone at the photogenic spots, but it’s also easy to get lost here. If you’re in the area: you absolutely have to do this, it’s seriously worth it, and it’s unbelievable!

8. Col d’Orgambidé

Okay, just like the Bardenas, this is no longer part of the Picos de Europa, but this beautiful shortcut from Spain to France is definitely worth mentioning. It’s a small mountain pass where you’ll probably wonder if you’re still following the right track. Narrow, deserted, winding, and so enjoyable that I completely forgot to take decent photos.

To conclude this travel report, here are some reflections:

– Last year in Norway, we were treated to magnificent landscapes, while the riding challenges were somewhat less demanding. This year, I felt it was quite the opposite: the Picos de Europa offered us fantastic riding roads. For fans of bends and turns, there’s a rich variation in all shapes and sizes. While I can’t call the landscapes anything less than beautiful, the breathtaking views that leave you in awe are definitely less frequent compared to places like Norway or the Alps. Perhaps I’ve become a bit spoiled in that regard.

– To illustrate how everyone experiences such a trip differently: Jan_F’s highlight was the N-621. I quote: “smoothly steering racetrack asphalt.” We rode it from Boca de Huergano to La Hermida as part of the first loop on day 4.

– A week is enough to explore the Picos, and there’s plenty to do in the surrounding area to keep you entertained. If you value the ride itself and want something different than the classic destinations, then the Picos are surely worth recommending.

– If you’re plotting your own routes, make sure to check Street View regularly. We were surprised twice by unexpected stretches of unpaved road. It wasn’t particularly difficult in our case, but if you’re not expecting offroad sections, it can turn into a serious butt-clenching moment.

– The Bardenas Reales had been on our wishlist for a long time. Looking back on this trip, we should have approached the Bardenas differently. We should have allocated more time for it and explored more roads. As it was, we ended up rushing through. I think the Bardenas would have made a bigger impression if we had dedicated at least half a day to it.

It was also somewhat off of our route, so if you decide to take a significant detour to visit the Bardenas, be sure to take the time to enjoy it. Do keep in mind the potential heat (in our case, close to 30 °C) and the blazing sun. Choosing the right moment for a visit is certainly wise.

– While on other trips we usually stayed at a different campsite every day, this journey included two loops from the same campsite, resulting in three nights there. This meant significantly fewer tent setup and teardown rituals, which was quite a pleasant experience. In future trips, we’ll try to reduce the number of one-night stays again, as far as our plans allow, of course.