Every week, it seems like there’s a new trending skincare ingredient promising healthy, glowing skin. But few have science to back those claims—and most dermatologists and product formulators will tell you that the vast majority can’t compare to tried-and-true actives like retinol, niacinamide, or salicylic acid. But one natural extract is popping up in more and more products, and experts say there’s evidence it can really make a difference when it comes to your complexion.

We’re talking about mushrooms.

Used in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries, the popular fungi is showing up in serums and creams from some of the most buzzy brands, and can brighten, firm, and protect skin, says cosmetic chemist Ginger King. Rich in a fiber known as beta glucan, King compares mushroom extracts to nourishing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and protective antioxidants. Most importantly, mushrooms are known as adaptogens—herbs, roots, and other plants that help the body mitigate the effects of stress, she says.

Meet the experts: Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Shafer Clinic Fifth Avenue in New York City. Ginger King is a cosmetic chemist. Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York City. Joshua Zeichner, MD, is an associate professor and the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.

Intrigued yet? We think you should be. Read on to see why the experts say mushrooms should be included in your skincare.

How mushrooms can improve skin

This powerful natural extract appears to be a panacea for your outer layer, addressing a host of pressing concerns, from hyperpigmentation to dryness. The experts we consulted say these are the most common benefits:

• Brighten dark spots: All experts highlight mushroom’s ability to help get rid of dark spots. In fact, one of the most powerful skin brighteners, kojic acid, is derived from mushrooms, and is is well-known to even skin tone, says Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology. One animal study found that two edible mushrooms have potent depigmenting activity, inhibiting melanin synthesis.
• Hydrate: Mushrooms are known humectants that help the skin retain moisture, says Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Shafer Clinic Fifth Avenue in New York City. One study found that, when added to shower gel formulations, three different mushroom extracts—maitake, reishi, and lion’s mane—helped to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
• Minimize the signs of aging: Dr. Engelman adds that mushrooms can also boost the production of collagen and elastin. In fact, one research review found that fungi extracts that have an overall anti-aging effect on skin via their moisturizing, protective, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-stabilizing properties.
• Protect skin: Mushrooms also have antioxidant properties, which protect the skin from free radicals that damage the skin and can lead to premature signs of aging.
• Reduce inflammation: Dr. Engelman explains that because mushrooms are adaptogens, they have anti-inflammatory properties. This means they can combat stress, balance the skin, and reduce redness. They can also address skin conditions like dermatitis, psoriasis, and eczema, she says.

Look for these specific mushrooms in skincare

Not all mushrooms are made the same, and some are better at targeting certain skin concern than others. These are a few varieties to keep your eyes out for:

Chaga

Chaga mushrooms are the fungi that you find on the trunk of birch trees and research shows they have a unique combination of bioactive compounds that can benefit whole-body health. For skincare, they are what you turn to for antioxidant and brightening benefits. “Chaga mushroom has been shown to block the enzyme responsible for production of dark spots on the skin, the same target as ingredients like hydroquinone, kojic acid, and arbutin,” says Dr. Zeichner. Also notable is that these mushrooms contain more antioxidants than acai and blueberries. “Its antioxidant effects may also protect the skin against free radical damage from environmental exposures like UV light and pollution.”

Tremella

The tremella mushroom, more commonly known as snow mushroom, are rich in moisturizing polysaccharides, according to research. While it is a brightening ingredient, it’s better when used for its moisturizing benefits. According to Dr. Engelman, the tremella mushroom is a humectant that can hold up to 500 times its weight in water, making it great for dry skin. Dr. Zeichner adds that it’s also loaded with fatty acids, which offer emollient benefits and help repair the skin barrier.

Truffle

Yes, shaved truffles can add a tremendous (and luxurious) flavor boost to food items like French fries and pasta, but they also make for powerful skincare ingredients too. “Truffles are a type of mushroom that contain high levels of fatty acids and antioxidants, research shows. “Truffle extracts in skin care can help soothe, protect, and brighten the skin,” says Dr. Zeichner.

Reishi

For anti-aging benefits, turn to the reishi mushroom. Studies show that the reishi mushroom can help reduce photoaging in the skin. Dr. Engelman adds that it also has anti-inflammatory properties to calm sensitive skin.

Lion’s Mane

Dr. Garshick says that lion’s mane is another mushroom that will tend to all your anti-aging skincare needs. “This mushroom works to support collagen production, helping to improve the appearance of fine lines and heal wounds,” she says.

Shiitake

Shiitake mushrooms can do a lot. First, Dr. Engelman says that because they contain kojic acid, they can help brighten the skin and reduce hyperpigmentation. Research shows they also have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, so they can help stimulate cell turnover, boost collagen and elastin production, and protect skin from sun damage.

Cordyceps

Cordyceps are a fungi that grows on insect larvae. Dr. Engelman says that it is an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient, which helps protect the skin from environmental aggressors. Animal studies also show that it combats oxidative stress and stimulates collagen production.

How to incorporate mushrooms into your beauty routine

You’ll usually find mushroom extracts in serums, creams, and lotions, says King, and they’re pretty easy to incorporate into your routine. Fairly well-tolerated, they pair well with other active ingredients like vitamin C or retinol, and shouldn’t cause any irritation or redness. Unless you have a known allergy or sensitivity to mushrooms, your skin should tolerate these products wel.

Dr. Engelman agrees, and adds that those who are pregnant or breastfeeding should consult their doctor before using mushroom products; many ingredients can pass through the skin barrier into the bloodstream, which may affect a fetus or nursing baby and not all types of mushrooms have been sufficiently researched for safety. “I always recommend exercising caution whenever trying anything new,” she says.